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Satu lagi troubleshooting yang saya muat disini yaitu troubleshooting hard disk. Contoh kasus ini merupakan yang terakhir setelah beberapa troubleshooting dumuat, diantaranya troubleshooting VGA Card, Prosesor, Memori, Motherboard, Sound Card, Casing dan Power Supply. Lain waktu mudah-mudahan bisa menambahkan troubleshooting2 yang lainnya.
Komputer tidak mau booting, Setelah memasang hard disk yang baru, komputer tidak mau booting dan tidak ada pesan kesalahan yang muncul pada layar monitor.
1. Matikan komputer, buka casing komputer dan lepaskan hard disk dari casing, dengan terlebih dahulu melepaskan skrup yang terpasang pada hard disk.
2. Pastikan jumper yang terpasang pada hard disk, posisinya sudah benar.
3. Pasang kembali hard disk dan Remount your drive in the computer dan tutup/pasang kembali tutup pada casing komputer.
4. Masukkan disket bootable pada drive A dan hidupkan komputer. Jalankan program Disk Manager dengan cara masukkan disket Disc-Wizard ke drive A dan ketik A:XDM. Kemudian tekan tombol ENTER.
5. Ikuti instruksi yang ada di Disk Manager untuk menginstall dan memformat hard disk.
6. Setelah program Disk Manager selesai dijalankan, booting kembali komputer.
Pada DOS muncul pesan kesalahan “Disk Boot Failure,” “Non-System Disk” atau “No ROM Basic - SYSTEM HALTED”.
1. Install kembali file sistem DOS menggunakan utility DOS SYS.
2. Cek semua kabel yang terpasang pada motherboard.
3. Gunakan FDISK untuk melihat apakah partisi primer (biasanya diatur untuk hard disk dan digunakan untuk booting pertama kali) sudah aktif atau belum.
4. Cek apakah hard disk terkena virus atau tidak, dengan menggunakan anti virus.
Pada sistem muncul pesan kesalahan: “HDD Controller failure”.
Amati dan perhatikan jumper pada hard disk sudah benar atau belum. Kalau belum segera masukkan sesuai dengan urutannya.
Ketika menghidupkan komputer. Pada waktu menghidupkan kompmter, layar monitor tetap hitam dan tidak berubah.
1. Pastikan kabel monitor sudah terpasang di casing komputer dan power monitor sudah dihidupkan.
2. Pastikan kabel dari VGA Card sudah terpasang di slot pada casing komputer dengan benar dan masuk ke slot pada monitor dengan baik.
3. Restart kembali komputer.
Ketika menghidupkan komputer, di layar monitor muncul pesan kesalahan: “Drive not Ready”.
1. Cek koneksi semua kabel. Pastikan pin 1 pada drive dihubungkan ke pin 1 pada hard-disk controller.
2. Pastikan daya power suppy cukup dengan kebutuhan.
3. Booting kembali komputer
Pada FDISK muncul pesan kesalahan, “No Fixed Disk Present’.
1. Pastikan daya power supply cukup dan sesuai dengan kebutuhan.
2. Cek isi dari drive pada waktu melakukan setup pertama kali.
3. Cek apakah terjadi konflik pada alamat atau port I/O.
My computer running Windows XP Home Edition is using an elderly AMD Athlon 1GHz Thunderbird processor, so I am looking to change the motherboard, processor, and RAM. How will Windows XP react to the new hardware? Will I have to re-register Windows XP? Should I remove all of the old motherboard drivers in the Device Manager just before I make the switch, or in Safe Mode just afterwards?
Because of Product Activation, replacing the hardware components you mention is more problematic in Windows XP than in Windows 95/98/Me, which don't use it. For that reason, no method is 100% successful, but if you understand and can implement the following information you stand a good chance of upgrading your computer successfully without having to reinstall Windows XP.
Your new motherboard will almost certainly have different chipset(s) than the one it is replacing, especially if it has an onboard video chip that provides the video instead of a dedicated graphics card, and which has its own chipset. A Windows XP installation that uses the chipset drivers for the old motherboard is likely to lock up when you run it on the new motherboard.
Note that RAM and the processor do not have device drivers, so you don't have to do anything to Windows XP if you upgrade those components. Windows will automatically detect and install those devices.
The most successful process involves having to perform a repair installation of Windows XP, which requires a full Windows XP CD, or at least a recovery partition that includes a repair option. If your computer only came with a Recovery CD that restores the computer's software to the condition it was in when it left the factory, it would restore the device drivers for the old motherboard. If you only have a Recovery CD, unless you are willing to try creating a bootable Windows XP CD from it, you'll have to buy a full copy of Windows XP, not the Upgrade version, because the Recovery CD doesn't qualify as an upgradable version of Windows. You should be able to buy an inexpensive OEM copy (usually at half the price or less of the retail version) that must be purchased with a component, such as a motherboard, hard drive, etc.
It is possible to create a boot Windows XP CD from a Recovery CD. How to use BartPE to create a bootable Windows XP CD if your PC doesn't have one on this site provides the necessary information.
Note that there could be problems with this method because of Product Activation. If your computer came with a Recovery CD (restore disc), it has an OEM version of Windows XP. An OEM version is provided at reduced cost to the manufacturer because it has a restriction placed on its use. It can only be used on the computer that it was provided for. Microsoft takes the view that it is the motherboard that determines if the same computer is being used. Everything else can be changed as long as the motherboard stays the same model. If you change the model of motherboard, Microsoft says that it isn't the same computer and the user has to buy a new copy of Windows. You would have to telephone Microsoft to obtain the key to reactivate Windows XP and say that you had to replace the motherboard because the previous one died. If you say that you upgraded a functioning motherboard, you won't be allowed to reactivate Windows XP, because an upgrade doesn't qualify as being the same computer under the terms of an OEM licence. That is not the case with a retail copy of Windows. You can change the motherboard. The user will probably just have to phone Microsoft to explain that the motherboard has been upgraded, give a promise that the copy is only being used on one computer, and obtain the activation code.
Alternatively, if you are careful and know what you're doing, it is possible to go into the Device Manager and remove all of the drivers for the old motherboard chipset and the drivers for the video card if the motherboard has an onboard graphics chip. The key devices, such as the IDE Controllers and video have to be replaced with the generic (standard) Windows drives. You can do that by right-clicking on the device making use of the of the Update Driver... option.
You would then shut Windows down, turn the PC off at the mains, but leave it plugged in, and perform the upgrade. When you restart the upgraded system, Windows XP should detect new hardware and install the correct drivers, or ask for them on a CD. However, note that this can be a messy business. A repair installation is the best option if you have a Windows XP installation CD.
If you value the software and data files on the computer, you should make a restorable backup of the system before changing the hardware. Click here! to go to the information on creating backups on this site.
You won't have an SATA hard drive, because your elderly system must have an IDE hard drive. But if anyone is replacing a motherboard and is installing an SATA hard drive, visit the motherboard manufacturer's site and download the current SATA drivers for the new motherboard because you will need to install them when Windows asks for them. Follow the manufacturer instructions and place the drivers on a floppy disk so that they will be available after the new hardware has been installed.
Start the process by inserting the Windows XP CD in the CD/DVD drive, close the window that opens if the auto-start function is enabled and shut down the computer in the normal way. This leaves the Windows XP installation CD in the drive so it will be ready for use after the upgrade.
Note that you should not make changes to the system, such as rearranging the hard drives (if the system has more than one hard drive), or changing the IDE channel that the CD drive is using. You should leave as much of the rest of the system as it is until you complete the upgrade procedure successfully.
You should know how to remove the old components and install the new ones. Visit the Build Your Own PC pages on this site for the relevant information and make sure that you read and understand the information in the user manual that is provided with a motherboard. New motherboards are very easy to install. They auto-configure everything. In previous times, it was necessary to set the BIOS and the jumpers/dip switches on the motherboard in order to get the hardware to work. If you are upgrading an old system with components that are not new, you should read the motherboard's manual to find out what is required. It is possible to install most new motherboard without configuring anything. The BIOS and Windows do everything automatically. The only action you might have to take is insert a driver CD.
You should enter the BIOS to make sure the system date and time are set correctly because Windows takes its date and time from the BIOS. In order to boot from a CD, the BIOS has to be set to boot first from the CD/DVD drive. The motherboard manual will have a section on the BIOS that explains the settings. The boot order will be in a section of the BIOS called something like BIOS Features Setup. There will be settings that you choose to enable the hard drive, CD/DVD drive, floppy drive, etc. as the first boot device.
After you have replaced the motherboard, you should start up the system and press the key(s) that open the BIOS to make the change in the boot order. Do not allow Windows to boot the system if you can't open the BIOS, press the reset button on the case or the Ctrl+Alt+Del key combination to restart the system. Saving the new BIOS setting, exits the BIOS and reboots the system. You left the Windows XP CD in the CD drive when you shut down to perform the upgrade, so the system will boot from it. As the boot sequence continues, watch the screen for a message to appear that the system is looking for a bootable CD ROM. Watch the screen for the message that the CD has been auto-detected, followed by the Press any key to boot CD message. Press the spacebar or any other key within the five seconds in which the message is displayed.
Windows begins to inspect the hardware configuration. After the inspection is complete, Windows starts to load files from the CD as it begins the installation. A screen appears that shows these three options.
1. - To set up Windows XP now, press ENTER.
2. - To repair a Windows XP installation using the Recovery Console, press R.
3. - To quit Setup without installing Windows XP, press F3.
The second option asks if you want to repair a Windows XP installation using Recovery Console. This may be the required course of action in other circumstances, but in this case you only want to repair Windows XP without using Recovery Console. To do that, select the first option to set up Windows by pressing the Enter key.
More files will load from the CD. A list of all the current installations of Windows XP will be displayed in the lower portion of the window. Use the arrow keys to select among them if you have more than one installation. After the selection has been made, press the R key to begin the repair process.
NOTE: Do not choose the option to press the ESC key! Note well that pressing the ESC key will result in you losing all of your data files and settings and is akin to doing a reformat and clean install.
Note that when you perform a repair of a current installation you are asked to enter the Product Key that came with the Windows XP CD. Windows XP is installing a fresh copy of itself over the existing copy. While the data and settings are not destroyed, any Service Packs will have to be reinstalled after the repair process has completed. The Setup continues and eventually the computer reboots. Watch the onscreen prompts, but do not press a key when the Press any key to boot CD message appears. The installation continues, prompting you from time to time to supply additional setup information. After you have provided the appropriate responses, another reboot occurs, this time bringing you into Windows XP.
After the repair installation is completed, you should be able to start up Windows XP as usual.
Note that you might have to reactivate Windows XP after such a repair installation. Microsoft has made the process fast and virtually painless, so, if you do have to reactivate, just make the free call to Microsoft to explain your circumstances and obtain the new code, and everything should be in order.
Read the following article in the MS Knowledge Base if you require more information.
How to replace the motherboard on a computer that is running Windows Server 2003, Windows XP, or Windows 2000 -
You can also enter a search term such as replace + motherboard + xp (as is) in Google search box at the top of this page with it Web radio button enabled.
Replacing a motherboard in Windows Vista
At the time of writing, the situation with regard to replacing a motherboard in Windows Vista was unclear, because I don't know if Startup Repair in Vista can be used in the same way as a repair install in Windows XP. Also note that there is no longer a Recovery Console in Windows Vista. You only have System Restore and Startup Repair.
Startup Repair: frequently asked questions - http://windowshelp.microsoft.com/Windows/en-US/...-74f3922f3f351033.mspx
Windows Vista Repair Options - http://vistasupport.mvps.org/windows_vista_repair_options.htm
Have I destroyed my motherboard, keyboard and wireless network adapter by using two USB ports at the same time that are linked together on the motherboard?
I repaired my desktop PC by replacing the motherboard with an ASRock P4VM890 Socket 478 motherboard for Intel Pentium 4 / Celeron D (Prescott, Northwood, Willamette) processors. It was working properly until I plugged a flash drive into one of the USB ports on the motherboard at the rear of the case. According to the motherboard manual, the port is shared with a USB port on the front panel of the case, which had a USB D-Link wireless network adapter plugged into it. The flash drive packed in along with the keyboard. I replaced the keyboard, which worked for a while but has now also packed in. The keyboard has a PS/2 five-pin DIN plug that is used with a USB adapter cable. The motherboard manual says that the two sockets will not function together, but it does not say that using both of them at the same time will cause damage.
The ASRock P4VM890 motherboard provides six USB ports from its ports panel that appears at the back of the case when the motherboard is installed in it. The motherboard also has two sets of headers on the motherboard itself for connecting USB ports in the front panel of the case with cables that are provided by the case.
This page on ASRock's site provides the manual as a download - http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P4VM890. If it doesn't work, you can try entering asrock p4vm890 in the Google search box at the top of this page (with its Web radio button enabled) to find the current link.
The USB header at the bottom, near the SATA hard-disk-drive connectors and the third PCI slot, provides an additional two USB ports. The other header, located behind the USB ports on the motherboard's ports panel, shares a connection with two of them. You can't use both the front and back USB connections, which are connected to the same port, simultaneously. However, it doesn't seem likely that plugging in two devices would produce a short circuit, such as you describe, if the cable between the header and the front ports had been wired correctly.
Perhaps the front-panel connector cable from your case does not match the pin-out of these USB headers. There are several variations in the pin-out of USB headers. Most motherboard manufacturers, including ASRock, place the two 5V power pins next to each other, usually at the far end from the 'missing' pin of the nine-pin connector. However, some motherboard manufacturers reverse the order of pins on the second USB port, so one is arranged Power, Data-, Data+, Ground, and the other is Ground, Data+, Data-, Power.
Therefore, when you want to connect USB cables to a new motherboard, you should check the motherboard manual carefully. A multimeter set to DC volts can be used to check which pins are running at 5V. The wires in the cable are usually red when they are used to deliver power.
Read this illustrated article - How to Install Front USB by Connecting Front USB Ports to a Motherboard? -
Note that PS/2-to-USB adapters of the kind that you used to connect your PS/2 keyboard to a PS/2 keyboard USB port on the motherboard will only work if the PS/2 keyboard (or mouse) has been designed to work with both a USB and a PS/2 connection. You had that setup working, so they must be compatible.
It is more probably that the adapter has burnt out or been shorted by too much current. You could also find shorted leads in the front-panel USB cables. If you can, before using it again, use a multimeter set to resistance to check each possible combination of pins for a short circuit. It should be safe to use the keyboard in the motherboard's PS/2 keyboard port to find out if it is still working.
Unfortunately, the fourth and fifth USB ports could be permanently damaged. They are on the shared header and the right-most connectors, furthest away from the PS/2 keyboard port, on the back of the motherboard. A damaged USB port can damage other equipment permanently, so you should avoid using them.
Faulty RAM/motherboard/power supply: My PC constantly reboots 10 to 20 minutes after being switched on
I have a problem with my desktop PC (Windows XP, AMD Athlon 1700+, 256MB of RAM, 80GB hard disk drive, CD/DVD writer) and I hope that you can tell me why it reboots 10 to 20 minutes after it has been switched on. I've changed the RAM memory and reformatted the hard drive, but without success. Could this be a hardware issue? Please list all of the possible causes of this problem and all of the possible solutions.
The following two links provide comprehensive cover of PC rebooting problems of that kind:
Windows XP Shut Down and Automatic Reboot Problems - http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/helpandsupport/learnmore/...
System Continually Reboots - http://www.5starsupport.com/xp-faq/1-92.htm
You have changed the RAM, but it is important that any new RAM module(s) are fully compatible with both the motherboard and/or any other RAM module(s) already installed in the system (new RAM could also be bad). Your PC is elderly so note that there can be jumpers on older motherboards that need to be set for specific RAM configurations. Consult your motherboard's manual (downloadable in the PDF format from its manufacture's site for your PC's make/model of motherboard), or the manufacturer's website for specific instructions and compatibility requirements.
If you don't know the make and model of the motherboard installed in your computer, here is a good free utility - Belarc Advisor - that creates an analysis of the hardware and software on a personal computer. Look under FREE DOWNLOAD - http://www.belarc.com/. Another utility that also provides detailed information on the memory itself is CPU-Z.
It is advisable to use a good memory-test program to check your new and old RAM. Here are two:
You can use the UK and US Crucial Memory Advisors provided on the Home Page of this site to determine the correct RAM and capacity for your specific make and model computer and/or motherboard.
The PC's motherboard could have developed faults. For instance, malfunctioning capacitors on a motherboard can be responsible for a wide range of issues. It is possible for capacitors to fail due to a bad power source. If you see one or more capacitors (the cylindrical components that are soldered to and stick up from the motherboard) that are leaking substances, you have to replace the motherboard.
Some motherboard manufactures provide fault-testing software, so conduct a search of your PC's motherboard manufacturer's site for free software.
Find out if your PC is overheating with this free utility:
Motherboard Monitor - http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,7309,00.asp.
My PC has a Socket 478 Asus P4P800 motherboard. I have a TV tuner card installed in one of its PCI slots, which are all in use by devices that I do not want to remove, such as a sound card, FireWire adapter, etc, because they are all in use. For some reason, the PCI slot that the TV tuner card uses has stopped working. The computer has a 3.2GHz Intel Pentium 4 processor, and 2GB of RAM, so I need to find a new motherboard that will be able to run all of the PC's existing components. It also needs to be able to run two IDE hard disk drives and two SATA hard disk drives. How would I go about finding a suitable replacement?
You already know the make and model of your PC's existing motherboard, so you could make use of the Google search box provided at the top of this page to find vendors of the same make and model. Enable its Web radio button, copy asus p4p800 into the Search box, and click on Search.
Ebay is usually a good site to search for elderly PC components that may not still be available new.
If you didn't know the make and model of the motherboard, you don't need to open the PC's case to find out the information, you can use the Belarc Advisor that creates an analysis of the hardware and software on a personal computer. Look under FREE DOWNLOAD - http://www.belarc.com/. Another free utility that provides motherboard identification is CPU-Z.
If you cannot find a vendor of the same make and model of motherboard, you can try looking for a suitable alternative. I found one by using the following search term in the Google search box: socket 478 + pentium 4 + 3.2GHz + sata + ide. It is the Asrock P4165G Socket 478 motherboard, which has three PCI slots, supports 2GB of memory, and has two IDE ports and two SATA ports. Asus owns Asrock, so it is an Asus motherboard by another name. It is currently (May 2007) available from http://www.ebuyer.com/ for only £31.
Alternatively, you could just buy a good external USB 2.0 TV tuner and use it with your existing motherboard. The Freecom DVB-T USB TV tuner can pick up all of the digital Freeview channels when connected to a rooftop aerial, and it currently costs only £28.
I want to buy a Powercolor X1950 Pro ATI-Radeon-X1950-based graphics card, but my elderly PC's Socket A motherboard with an Athlon XP processor is too old to run it. I therefore have to upgrade the motherboard, the processor, and the memory. I have decided on an buying an Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 dual-core processor because of its excellent gaming performance. I would be grateful if you could advise me on which motherboard I should buy? I would like to keep my LCD monitor that has a D-sub VGA input. I intend to buy 1GB of Crucial memory in two modules of 512MB in order for them to work in dual-channel mode.
You could buy any Socket LGA775 motherboard that supports Intel Core 2 Duo processors, that doesn't have onboard graphics, made by Asus, MSI, ECS, or Gigabyte, that supports an Intel Core 2 Duo dual-core processor.
Note that not all Socket LGA775 motherboards support Intel's Core 2 Duo dual-core processors, so make sure that the specification includes that kind of support.
It is best not to buy a motherboard that has a built-in graphics chip because they are generally not high-performance boards. They are designed for use in office workstations. You don't say anything about having a sound card, but if the new motherboard has onboard sound, if you aren't satisfied with the quality of sound it delivers, you can disable it and install your own sound card.
I would buy an MSI P965 Platinum motherboard. Have a look at it on http://www.msi.com.tw/. You could then make use of the Google search box provided at the top of this page (with its Web radio button enabled) to search for local vendors. Just enter "MSI P965 Platinum", as is.
The Powercolor X1950 Pro graphics card has these main specifications: 256MB or 512MB versions - GDDR3 RAM - Two DVI ports - TV-out. I would buy the card with 512MB of GDDR3 memory. It has two digital DVI output ports. Your monitor only has an analog D-sub VGA input port, but the graphics card comes with a DVI-to-VGA adapter, so you can reuse it. However, for the best gaming performance, you should have a monitor connected to the graphics card via an unadapted DVI connection, which is why the card has two DVI ports and no VGA port. You can use them to connect to two DVI monitors that could display the game across two screens.
I would try using the adapter with your existing monitor. If your games play acceptably fast, well and good. If not, you could sell that monitor on eBay and buy a monitor that has a DVI input port.
My PC's power supply fried the motherboard and now a new motherboard won't work with components known to be good
First one of my two PCs, both of which are protected by surge protectors, started shutting down unexpectedly. I noticed that the cheap 300W power supply was very hot to the touch. The next day when I switched it on, about fifteen minutes after Windows XP had loaded, the PC made a fizz and pop sound and then it died. Swapping the power supply from the working PC to the dead PC didn't work. Then I tried installing the processor, graphics card, and RAM memory in the other PC, and, thankfully, they all worked. Now I knew that the motherboard had been taken out when the power supply failed, so I bought a new one that supports all of the working components. However, the repaired PC still doesn't work. That leaves only the case untested. Could the failing of the power supply have damaged the case so that it doesn't work?
Never use a cheap power supply in a computer as it is likely to turn out to be a false economy, because when one fails it can take out the other components. You were lucky that only the motherboard was affected. Moreover, using cheap surge protector is probably next to not having any surge protection, because the quality of the protection that is provided depends on the quality of the components used in them. Moreover, power constant small surges or spikes wear out the Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) components in a surge suppressor/protector of quality so that it should be replaced after it has been used over a long period of time. In any case, you should replace a surge protector after a major power surge, because its components will have been weakened. Some expensive protectors have an indicator light that lights up if its components are worn out. But if a protector doesn't provide a warning, you should replace it after a major power surge or lightning strike damages other electrical equipment. Some brands, such as Belkin SurgeMaster series, provide free insurance against damage to equipment protected by one, and also provide you with a free replacement strip when the warning light comes on.
How Surge Protectors Work - http://www.howstuffworks.com/surge-protector.htm
Of course, if the power supply itself creates a power surge when it fails, which cheap units often do, a surge suppressor/protector won't provide any protection because you plug the PC into a protector, and the power supply is inside the protection. When a power supply fails, the capacitors on the motherboard, which are the large cylindrical components about 10mm long, often have an X or a K on their tops, and stand vertically on the board, will almost certainly be damaged. Signs of damage are if one or more of them is bulging or is leaking its electrolyte. Occasionally, the bulge can be hidden in the base of the capacitor, making it tilt to one side. In some cases the damage isn't visible.
A motherboard's capacitors maintain the quality of the power supply by smoothing it out, so capacitors of quality stand a better chance of absorbing a power surge created by the mains supply or by a failed power supply unit. Therefore a PC that has a cheap power supply and a cheap motherboard stands an excellent chance of failing in the same way as yours did. Even the major PC manufacturers (Dell, HP, and Apple) and motherboard manufacturers (Intel, Soyo, and Abit) have admitted to having problems with bad capacitors. For example, Dell admitted in 2005 that it would have to spend about £160/$300 million replacing motherboards that have faulty capacitors that were used in its Optiplex GX270 and GX280 computers, manufactured between April 2003 and March 2004.
Note that a fried motherboard can sometimes only display inconsistent behaviour and work properly the rest of the time.
Of course, your new motherboard could be a "dead on arrival" case.
If you have the new motherboard lying outside the case on insulating material, such as an anti-static bag or on cardboard, with the processor, its heatsink and fan, graphics card, and the RAM installed, and connect it to the power supply and it boots and allows you to enter the BIOS by pressing the correct entry key, you know that something is shorting the board if it doesn't work after you've installed it in the case. A loose screw or an unused standoff screw under the motherboard can short it and make it not work.
If that is not the cause, try disconnecting the power for a while and then reconnect it to make sure that the PC isn't stuck in sleep mode. You should also make sure that the power switch is connected to the correct two pins on the motherboard, because nothing happens if the power switch is connected to the wrong two pins.
All ATX motherboards are always on in standby mode when connected to the mains. Pressing the power switch shorts the two pins that triggers a software response, which is usually to turn the machine off if it is on, or on if it is off, but it can also be programmed to enter hibernation.
Switches rarely fail, but you can bypass the power switch by pressing the head of a screwdriver, which is an insulated tool, against the two power switch pins. Doing so shorts the two pins and should make the motherboard power up.
Then you can install the other components, such as the hard disk drive(s), CD/DVD drive(s), sound card, etc.
If you can't get the system to work, obtain a replacement for the new motherboard.
The following anonymous post that I came across on a forum illustrates just how difficult choosing a motherboard/processor combination can be.
ECS P6S5AT Motherboard & 1.3 GHz Celeron SL6C7 CPU
"When I went to my local PC parts dealer, I asked him if he had a motherboard to support a 1.3 GHz Celeron CPU. He recommended that I purchase the ECS P6S5AT motherboard.
"When I started to assemble the computer I noticed in the motherboard's user manual that this board states that it supports FC-PGA Celeron and FC-PGA Pentium 3 CPUs, including the newest Tualatin CPUs. It also states that the motherboard supports 66MHz, 100MHz, and 133MHz Front-Side Bus [FSB] speeds. It says it does not support P-PGA Celeron CPUs, whatever they are.
"Further in the manual some conflicting information is provided. It states that this motherboard currently supports FC-PGA Celeron: 533-800 MHz, FSB: 66 MHz (nothing about a 1.3 MHz Celeron with 100 MHz FSB), and FC-PGA Pentium 3: 500-1130 MHz, FSB: 100 MHz, and 133 MHz.
"The manual and the ECS website say nothing about the CPU [processor] voltage range supported by this motherboard. Will it support the 1.5 volt core voltage of my CPU? Also, the manual says nothing about supporting FC-PGA2, which is what my CPU is. My CPU is a 1.3 GHz Celeron, 100 MHz FSB, Spec Number: SL6C7, package type: FC-PGA2, L2 Cache Size: 256K, L2 Cache Speed: 1.30 GHz, Bus/Core Ratio: 13.0, Die Size: 0.13 micron, and has a core voltage of 1.5V. Can anyone tell me if this CPU is going to work in the ECS P6S5AT motherboard the vendor sold me? I am afraid to power up the system for fear of burning out the CPU. I'm a little confused and could use some advice. Help!"
Click the following link and you'll see that the PCB1.X version of the ECS P6S5AT motherboard with the p6s5at010914.exe BIOS update can run the Tualatin Celeron processor in question.
Note well that motherboard's can be revised by the manufacturer to run processors or other hardware that previous versions of the same model could not run, or BIOS updates can be issued for a particular model that makes it able to run hardware that a previous BIOS did not support.
If you are in doubt about a motherboard/combination, visit the manufacturer's site for information on that motherboard, and download the user manual - and look up what information is available on the processor on either the Intel or AMD site.
More information about Celeron processors can be found on the Intel site. - http://www.intel.com/
There is more information on how to choose a motherboard on Page 2 of the Motherboard set of pages on this site.
The major motherboard manufacturer's have their own ALT newsgroups, all of which have the word "mainboard" in the address instead of "motherboard". And most Internet Service Providers (ISPs) provide these newsgroups via their news servers. All you have to do is subscribe to them via your newsreader, which for most people is Microsoft's free Outlook Express. For example, the ALT newsgroup for Asus is alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus. These newsgroups are often excellent sources of information about troubleshooting, compatibility, and problems related to a particular make and model of motherboard.
Visit the Newsgoups page on this site for more information about them.
Sumber : pcbuyerbeware.co.uk